Posts: 2,134
Threads: 103
Likes Received: 334 in 233 posts
Likes Given: 164
Joined: Aug 2014
I will take some pics today. my bro will be here in a few days so i will leave it for him to look at.
If he can work it ouit or not i dont know, They dont solder at the gas pipe line.
Posts: 1,176
Threads: 105
Likes Received: 184 in 127 posts
Likes Given: 281
Joined: May 2014
(01-03-2015, 07:30 PM)darthphineas Wrote: Techs want $100 to solder up a guitar? WTF is the world coming to? That's stupid. I could see $50, if you threw them a curveball. Wow. Maybe it's gotten that way because there are so many broke dicks at GC claiming to be tech that just screw up things that it makes the good ones that much more in demand.
Nope.
They wire for a base fee of $35 IIRC. The more pickups and the farther you go down the rabbit hole as far as schemes, the more expensive it gets. I've run out of local places that I trust, so the last 2 times I got my guitar worked on I took it to the closest GC.
Luckily the guy they have is the best tech I've ever encountered, and he's super nice.
Posts: 2,134
Threads: 103
Likes Received: 334 in 233 posts
Likes Given: 164
Joined: Aug 2014
01-05-2015, 08:55 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-05-2015, 09:32 PM by kinnikuman.)
(01-05-2015, 07:37 PM)youngthrasher9 Wrote: Nope.
They wire for a base fee of $35 IIRC. The more pickups and the farther you go down the rabbit hole as far as schemes, the more expensive it gets. I've run out of local places that I trust, so the last 2 times I got my guitar worked on I took it to the closest GC.
Luckily the guy they have is the best tech I've ever encountered, and he's super nice.
I know a few great techs but i would rather do it myself. Its not going well this time haha.
Ok gv pics are a bit grainy
For good measure.
This guitar is going to need a lot of work. It was my frst build and i dont trust the fretboard glue join eeeep. Anyway we will see.
Posts: 5,953
Threads: 246
Likes Received: 1,457 in 1,059 posts
Likes Given: 1,507
Joined: May 2014
01-05-2015, 11:02 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-05-2015, 11:12 PM by GoldenVulture.)
Bit too fuzzy, especially the switch which is what I wanted to look at mainly.
Which switch is it ?
Have you got a multimeter or continuity tester ?
Posts: 2,134
Threads: 103
Likes Received: 334 in 233 posts
Likes Given: 164
Joined: Aug 2014
Its the switchcraft. yeah i have meter.
Posts: 5,953
Threads: 246
Likes Received: 1,457 in 1,059 posts
Likes Given: 1,507
Joined: May 2014
01-06-2015, 01:48 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-06-2015, 04:15 AM by GoldenVulture.)
Any chance of a clearer pic of the switch area.
Posts: 5,953
Threads: 246
Likes Received: 1,457 in 1,059 posts
Likes Given: 1,507
Joined: May 2014
01-06-2015, 04:12 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-06-2015, 04:22 AM by GoldenVulture.)
Guitar unplugged - vol and tone up full - switch set to centre -
Connect your MM ground to ground some where other than the switch, try and connect it so you don't have to hold it.
Set your MM to the X 1k range and set it to zero [ by holding the + probe to the - probe or ground some where ] and adjust the needle to zero ]
Put the + probe to the signal out of the switch.
If it was working properly it would read aprox half the the geater value of the two pups -assuming their ohmages are close to each other , + or - a few Kohms. Note it [ memory or paper ].
Next take the + probe to one of the pup switch connections - note it.
Go to the other one - note it.
Once again each should read about half ohmage.
If either read full ohmage for that pup, it's not connecting at the switch.
If any of these read zero , you have a short to ground.
If so look for stray solder going from ground to a switch connection.
Switch it to one of the pup by itself positions.
If switched to either pup you should get a full ohmage reading off both pup terminals ,relevant to the pup connected.
if either pup switch connection reads nothing you have no connection to the pup [ maybe dead ]
If it doesn't respond like this , you've got something wired wrongly.
Cleaning the blades and centre ball of the switch with contact cleaner or similar might help if there appears to be no connections happening within the switch.There should be no play amongst these in centre position.
Posts: 2,134
Threads: 103
Likes Received: 334 in 233 posts
Likes Given: 164
Joined: Aug 2014
(01-06-2015, 04:12 AM)GoldenVulture Wrote: Guitar unplugged - vol and tone up full - switch set to centre -
Connect your MM ground to ground some where other than the switch, try and connect it so you don't have to hold it.
Set your MM to the X 1k range and set it to zero [ by holding the + probe to the - probe or ground some where ] and adjust the needle to zero ]
Put the + probe to the signal out of the switch.
If it was working properly it would read aprox half the the geater value of the two pups -assuming their ohmages are close to each other , + or - a few Kohms. Note it [ memory or paper ].
Next take the + probe to one of the pup switch connections - note it.
Go to the other one - note it.
Once again each should read about half ohmage.
If either read full ohmage for that pup, it's not connecting at the switch.
If any of these read zero , you have a short to ground.
If so look for stray solder going from ground to a switch connection.
Switch it to one of the pup by itself positions.
If switched to either pup you should get a full ohmage reading off both pup terminals ,relevant to the pup connected.
if either pup switch connection reads nothing you have no connection to the pup [ maybe dead ]
If it doesn't respond like this , you've got something wired wrongly.
Cleaning the blades and centre ball of the switch with contact cleaner or similar might help if there appears to be no connections happening within the switch.There should be no play amongst these in centre position.
Thanks uncle hickory stick. My big brother is here today so i am going to take a look over it with him. I will show him your post too.
Posts: 2,134
Threads: 103
Likes Received: 334 in 233 posts
Likes Given: 164
Joined: Aug 2014
01-07-2015, 01:47 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-07-2015, 06:46 PM by kinnikuman.)
Ok we worked out and by we i mean my brother did.
Turns out its a fucked pickup. its no dead but instead reading 5meg. So that was causig a whole ap of strange issues. Now i need t solder in anew pup fix a few earths and it should be ok.
I might even try the shockwave again.
5meg sound crazy and i can't even see how its possible. Dan tried to explain i to me but am still going over it. The pickup cant even get a reading on my multi because its max is 2000k.
Posts: 2,134
Threads: 103
Likes Received: 334 in 233 posts
Likes Given: 164
Joined: Aug 2014
01-07-2015, 10:30 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-08-2015, 01:12 AM by kinnikuman.)
Fail. FAil FAIL. Switch still lets through signal on both pups in the bridge position.
Pre amp is noisy as a demon at full volume..
It took me less time to wire it in this time and the job is pretty damn neat.
I am not going to let this fucking thing defeat me. I will get my bro to come test it all again and see what he thinks.
Would it be possible that the dimarzio shockwave was only designed to work with low output pickups? It did originally come with 7k pups. Because at full volume its too noisy and at half its fine.
I did find this info
The Shock Wave Power Module is a high-gain, active preamp with low impedance output, built into a unitized locking output jack and backplate. the Shock Wave System includes the Power Module and three vertical humbuckers that were specially designed to work with it in both active and passive modes.
\
I just noticed i didnt ground the tone pot. ^^ hmm brb in a few hours after play time.
Well that made no difference. It grounded the pot but i am still having problems. The switch seems ok now. Both signal comes through on one side but its only a small amount. Maybe thats normal?
The preamp is a bitch it screams when the tone is on full. when its off it seems ok. I might just go to normal jack again. haha this is practice ctn you cunty bullox.
|